View from the upper level

We’ve been staying at Villa Lupara for about two weeks now.  Last Monday, we moved into a larger suite which includes a separate upstairs bedroom and a kitchen/dining area.  We’re much more comfortable with the extra space and ability to cook simple meals.   Villa Lupara was formerly a circa 1800s farmhouse built around the ruins of a medieval bakery.  The bakery operated during the time of the Lombard Prince Arechi in the 1100s.   I am actually sitting near the oven as I write this.   


It was renovated and reopened as an agriturismo in 2007.  They grow grapes for sulfate-free wine, olives for olive oil and other fresh produce – all organic.   We’ve benefited from the end of season glut of tomatoes with all we can eat free tomatoes.  Delicious but we’re actually getting sick of pomodoro this and that.   Somebody get me a filet mignon.

View looking up from the pool

The building is beautiful but the grounds of the villa take your breath away.   They are green and peaceful with a gorgeous view of the Mediterranean Sea.   In the late afternoon, you can hear the tinkling of cow and goat bells as the shepherds urge them home. 

In the south of Italy, you either live in a city or “not”.  Outside the cities are these mini-villages which are considered “frazione” or fractions of a city.  They usually consist of a few villas, apartments and some basic markets.  Then there is the “localita” which isn’t even considered a fraction.  It’s a place.   Villa Lupara is considered one along with its neighbor “Croce”.  Croce has what looks like (or was) a church, a pizzeria and bizarrely enough, a muscle-head gym.  I say bizarre because it’s odd enough to find any super muscular Italian men in the cities never mind Croce.  Most young men are slender and middle-age men are generally slim with the exception of their contented stomachs.    A gym in Croce is really an oddity. 

Cows drinking in the square

Animals roam freely in Croce.  Of course, the resident feral dogs wander around barking and chasing cars.   We’ve also seen goats by the road side and cows enjoy their mid-day drink at the public water fountain in the square.  I’ve seen them drinking there a couple times!

View of Mediterranean

Pool and grounds


Grape arbor